richy

I could complaint see a scenario where dish either acquires tmo's sites in a sprint tmo merger or sign a network hosting deal with sprimo. Then we have 4 players, dish gets a head start and sprint reaps some serious economies of scale with tmo. They could even divest some 2500/2600 to dish. I guess it all depends on what Dish plans to do with its spectrum and how many brown envelopes stuffed with cash Son manages to lose in lobbyists offices. I don't think Sprint needs the merger but I think they could make it work to their advantage.

Money better saved for spending elsewhere, like NV! It speaks volumes about the approach some companies take, money for artwork on a van (and that seriously isn't cheap across a fleet) but sod all spectrum, whats they saying about all skirt and no panties? I'd much rather see sprint continue to invest in it's network rather than crayola-ing a third party fleet, then again I'm no fan of advertising.

They had success in the past rebranding fuji stuff but fuji sold at roughly the same price in Japan (well at a moderate discount, but not orders of magnitude) but it was for literally the same camera. As digital has made photography substantially easier (a quick check of the number of uncle bob's and SMWAC's shooting weddings shows this) as compared to ye olde film days the market for better cameras has increased significantly. Hassie is basically playing for the 'dentist camera' market segment. People with very significant amounts of disposable income who want a camera to be seen with rather than it's robustness, image quality etc. They want a better camera than somebody else because frankly they dont stand a chance of being a better photographer. As much as it beggars belief it must be working, they have done it a third time (an a99 is on the way) and hassie is VC owned (capitalists, not the southern asian kind) and they tend to not repeat mistakes. Just as there is a market out there for cell phones with 4 year old tech but diamonds selling for insane prices it seems there is a market for grossly overpriced blinged up cameras. At those prices you could buy a decent mid tier full frame pro camera and a couple of pro lenses.

That could be a lot of fun Dear J Dawg, We got signal yes we do, we got signal hows about you? Sorry but we switched to a carrier that has higher download speeds than it's upload speeds, a network that works indoors as well as outdoors and plenty of room for additional capacity. I realise it will be a traumatic experience to leave a company as hip and home with the downies as yours but when the upside is a network that actually works between towns and is devoid of random deadzones in towns it's something we can live with. Regards Whilst $200 isn't huge it is still significant. I'm an advocate for stripping phones costs out from monthly rental charges as it allows for clearer pricing, programs like this and buyback can really make it easier to switch which is good for Sprint. It's enought o make a difference without crippling the company, tmo's last Q financials aren't all that rosy and those etf payouts seem to be hurting.

They were great, Fuji also made a great 6 x 8 with movement, I think you could even put a digital back on it. They make some astoundingly good glass as well. There's lots of dentists out there with hassie h systems raving about the lenses but they're really Fuji lenses, the xpan was another Fuji product rebranded. Linhof sell similar cameras but they make Fuji look cheap. There's some good stuff from China these days, Shen Hao make some good 6x12/17/24 cameras for very sane money. Mind you, even cheap stuff is good these days. I got an Olympus m43 with underwater housing for playing with and it was $500 new in a sale, the kit lens is surprisingly good.

Many probably did It was one of those no right or wrong choice in general but there were key advantages to each. Mamiya made 2 awesome rangefinders and Pentax made some great lenses but their SLR had a low shutter sync (1/30? iirc), crazy mirror slap, no replaceable backs and no route to digital. The 67 was very heavy and didn't have quite as many lenses (although they were great, sharp and robust) but for what I wanted it was the better bet. It was also the more expensive which swayed a lot of folks, the ability to use Polaroid backs and film won many over to the 67 in the pro market (excluding travel). If I was buying tomorrow (for personal use) I'd get the Mamiya 7 rangefinder in a heartbeat (even today it is holding is price very well when anything film that isn't hassie or leica had tanked). Lugging the 67 places is not much fun and is tough to fly with.

Rz67 The benefits are diminishing compared to digital medium format when it comes to enlargements and it would have been a hybrid workforce with a drum scan or perhaps a fake drum scan on a flextight. Really the benefits come down to resolution, the fact that is true color at every pixel rather than a Bayer sensor and more debatable factors like micro contrast. In the end the diminishing number of emulsions, especially at 8x10 and the difficulty of shipping the chemicals turned me off. That and I knew I wasn't stopping around long enough to make the investment back. Honestly though 8x10 has a crazy amount of detail, even rougher emulsions will scan at 2000 dpi and some even at circa 4000. It takes more technique but digital mf and newer high resolution 35 mm is starting to demand better technique anyway.

Nope, I still shoot some 6x7 but living out here getting E6 chems is insanely tough due to it not being able to fly and I hate shipping film for someone else to soup so mostly b&w. I did pretty much stop shooting 35mm film, the shoots I used it for were better suited to dslr's. Before I hung up the cameras I was doing a decent amount of hybrid work, combining digital 35mm and film MF and it paid pretty well. The portraits tended to blow up better with film (never be shocked by just how large some brides want their portraits) but that is hugely subjective. I was toying with going back to LF but it would have meant hiring an extra set of hands and also the scanning cost would have been a lot higher.

Bragging rights about who has the fastest network. This is in no way a criticism of Sprint, just a reality when dealing with the public who refuse to understand anything other than more = better (excluding taxes). I think it will be beneficial for Sprint as it will allow them to showcase what their network can do in terms the dribbling masses can comprehend. Your average consumer simply isn't equipped to figure out how different frequencies or technologies like lte or mimo will affect their service but throw them something like hey we are faster than Verizon and watch them flock to a Sprint store. Everyone wins then. Sprint has a spectrum advantage at higher frequencies and this allows them to leverage that and frankly I doubt most average customers would know if they were on 2500 or 1900 or 800 lte for normal smartphone usage, but they'll be happy knowing they're on the fastest network.

It's pretty much a useless number, but assuming about 60 mbps real world capacity in a 30.5 day month it is just short of 20TB per sector (download only). That assumes perfect distribution across the day and everyone having a perfect signal, the reality will be so much lower it's just a useless number.

I have been thinking about a few other tips - Tripods sometimes come with a hook on the bottom of the central column, you can use this to hang a camera bag or something heavy off to lend stability to your tripod without having to carry a heavy tripod. It makes for sharper shots. - You camera will have a timer mode, use this with tripod shots as your finger press can cause vibrations which can blur a shot slightly. If you get to using longer focal lengths and want advice on long lens technique give me a shout. - You will also have a mirror lock up, this basically stops the mirror slap from causing a blurred image on longer exposures. It's just good practice to use this is conjunction with a timer when shooting landscapes on a tripod. Don't forget to turn it back off - You may have noticed that shots taken with a flash can be a bit harsh. You can mitigate this affect even with the on camera flash with something as simple as a piece of tissue and an elastic band over the flash. You can also use some card to bounce it off a wall although the built in flash likely wont have the power to do that very well. Cheap 3rd party flashes can be bought or even cheaper nikon speedlights, somewhere like keh.com does great used kit. AJ mentioned aperture priority mode above (sage words). On the top of your camera theres a dial with PASM and a bunch of pictures on it. P mode is program mode, it basically guesses at what you want and sets the shutter speed and aperture for you (I'm assuming you would have it on auto iso). This is a decent fall back but the camera has virtually no idea what kind of picture you are taking so it will often guess wrong and a fast moving object will be blurred or you will have too much background in focus in a portrait. A mode is where you select the aperture and the camera selects the shutter speed for you to get the right exposure. This is pretty much the best mode to use most of the time. You control how much you want in focus and assuming you don't have anything moving too fast you should be golden. S mode is pretty much the reverse of A, you set the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture. This is useful for panning shots, the ones where a car going round a corner is perfectly in focus and the background has the nice sideways blur. It's also pretty useful in sports and when shooting on a moving platform like a boat as you can force the shutter speed higher than the camera thinks it should be. M mode is where you set the shutter speed and the aperture. Very useful when shooting flash, at least I found that. It's also sometimes quicker to use M mode in a situation where the cameras auto exposure is easily fooled. Dappled light or where the subject needs to be exposed differently, like a bride on a dancefloor under a spotlight etc. It might help you just to play with tis mode and start to see what happens when you over and under expose shots, sometimes the camera is wrong The pictures are pretty self explanatory, they help the camera understand what type of shot you are taking, i.e. the face is for portraits which will go for a lower iso, wide aperture and not care much about the shutter speed (other than to avoid shake) so you get a clean image with a nice blurred background. The mountain tells it landscape so it will be low iso, narrow aperture and again not so much conern about the shutter speed. The guy running will tell it sod the iso, crank up the shutter speed and widen the aperture so you minimise the chance of blur. It's no sin to use them The point is to have fun and learn as you go. Some people learned the hard way, fully manual cameras and souping our own film, that doesn't mean its the best way but it does have benefits. Challenging yourself can cause you to make leaps in your knowledge, but it shouldn't ever be at the expense of having fun. AJ's point about getting out there is entirely correct, you have a lens and a camera, go have fun then come back and show us a shot and tell us how you want it to look better and we can help. Oh and Google 'golden hours'.

oh and some relatively cheap things to get if you want to do landscapes would be a semi decent tripod, a circular polarizing filter and some neutral density grad filters. I'd pickup something like the cokin P series holder and filters. Depending on who you listen to a UV filter can be a good idea, it can help protect the front element of the lens from getting scratched \ broken, the flip side is just as many people say it's just another layer of glass or resin screwing up image quality so it's pretty much a toss up. I use them most of the time but plenty of others dont. The polarizing filter is good for cutting out reflections on water and deepening blues in sky's etc, it can get a little zany on wider angles (there are exceptions but it's not worth covering them). The grad filters help balance the difference in brightness between the sky and the ground so you don't either have a dark foreground and a blue sky or a well exposed foreground and a white sky. Normal (non graduated) ND filters can also be used to reduce the amount of light entering the lens allowing you to (for example) take those long exposure waterfall shots in the middle of the day or even make people and cars completely disappear I would stay away from any coloured filters, I know the temptation to pickup a tobacco filter is nearly irresistible but fight it!! If you insist on that kind of colour treatment its easier to do it in photoshop This place do filters for a sane price. http://2filter.com/cokin/cokinp.html I have a cokin z pro kit buried somewhere for when I need nd grads. The p series is smaller but cheaper and more likely to be in stock. They're resin filters rather than glass but good enough.

I shot professionally for nearly a decade. Initially landscapes and sports, moving onto events \ weddings \ portraits etc. I am far from an expert, mostly self taught but I would be happy to offer some thoughts. As regards lenses, a prime may be a good buy but I would suggest using what you have just for now and see what you are missing. Photography can be very expensive and I would caution against GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) which usually leads to sleeping in your car. Buying budget lenses can often be a false economy though as pro grade kit can last a lot longer and deliver higher performance, just something to bear in mind, cheaper lenses can make great sense, and you can also end up replacing them a lot as they can be fragile and quickly cost more than more expensive lenses. (Touch wood I have never ever had a canon L lens or a mamiya prime break down on me, I have thrown away a lot of cheaper glass). I would suggest playing with it then deciding which focal lengths you will use most. I find 50mm (35mm on a crop, a little bit weird, not wide enough or long enough, but your style of shooting will show you this), I would pickup an 85mm for portraits and maybe a 24mm for landscapes. Right now your lens will deliver most of the fields of view you will want. What it won't do is work too well in low light, deliver a shallow depth of field or see 'far away'. You mention pictures of people, I would play with shooting people with your current lens in different poses, (sitting, full body, waist up, 1/4, head shot) and see what focal lengths you end up using. I tend to use a 70-200mm lens for portraits (and landscapes but I am more than a little weird) taking a lot of portraits around the 135mm length (on a full frame camera, on your camera the same field of view would need a ~90mm lens). This should give you an idea of how focal length works and how it affects depth of field. DOF is basically how much is sharp. A shallow DOF (usually favored for portraits unless the background is important) will be hard for you to get with that lens, a cheap F1.8 prime would do the job for you, basically means you get a nice tack sharp subject and a creamy background. You use the DOF to isolate the subject, make sure the person is what peoples eyes are drawn to. A wide DOF, (easily done with your kit lens) is typically used for landscapes (although weirdos like me sometimes do the opposite), you want to capture the whole scene. Now theres two primary methods for controlling DOF, the first is the F stop, it's a little confusing as it's rarely written properly, people say F1.8 when in reality its F1/1.8 so the 'bigger' the number the less light it lets in (which can affect shutter speed) and the deeper the dof. You can also control DOF by changing your distance to the subject which changes your focal length for the same framing, the wider the angle the deeper the DOF for a given F stop. This probably sounds like gibberish, go play with a scene in your house or garden and take shots and compare and it will slowly make sense Some quick terms, google rule of thirds and the five eyes rule (the latter specifically for portraits). They aren't tough to understand and they should help you start off with basic composition. Composition is seriously important, once you understand what moves you on from a snapshot to an actual photograph, the ability to adopt a pose other than "70's Japanese tourist" you will start rocking! You should have a local camera club that can help, also find photographers you like, find pictures you like and try to copy them. Theres no shame in it, its how many folks learn. It doesn't mean your shots will always look like theirs, it's just a way of mastering the controls and the techniques. It's hard to know where to start to be honest as theres a lot to learn, you never really stop learning Please feel free to ask any questions

I'll leave others far more informed to discuss how possible this is, although some of the technologies mentioned have already found use in wifi and newer implementations of LTE so some of it at least is not entirely seamonkeys. However I see some significant benefits for sprint, unless I misunderstand how this works, it would mean Sprint wouldn't need to buy as much or any 600MHz spectrum. It's relatively limited Nextel spectrum would 'go a lot farther' capacity wise and even range rise. It should also help in rural areas. I'll reserve judgement until it's deployed in anger but it has potential, although it does seem a little too good to be true. I would love to see this used for VOD and fixed location broadband. It would allow Sprint to do rain havoc on a few companies that have gotten complacent, fat and far to used to screwing consumers who have very few if any alternatives.

Yessir! I could before I moved, but it's the wrong number of wheels for me plus I'm to old for those kind of shenanigans ! I didn't know they didn't sell it here, you could probably import one as a 1500 mile a year limit showcar (Thank you Mr Leno!). Frankly over 200mph is scary, over 150 is bad enough. On Island there's nowhere safe to go fast, 120ish is about the max up to Kula but the popo know this and wait for you. Better and cheaper to ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow

I moved

Lol true but a Masters with experience is a much better bet. I can't say much about associates degrees as we don't have them in the UK and I've not really hired people with them but by and large a bsc says you can learn at a high level and commit to something for 3-4 years. A masters says all that and you can problem solve at an even higher level (a bsc doesn't really require novel thought). A PhD says you can innovate and provide novel solutions to complicated problems. The more jaded suggest that a Bachelors is just proof you can stay sober for 4 weeks a year. They also suggest that if it isn't a science is just basket weaving (an honorable exception is made for the Math degrees which are awarded as arts degrees). All in, if you want money, get a Masters and experience to match. (The blow it off and go be a photographer).

Hawaiiantel cannot get fiber here fast enough after this news. I don't use any cable TV service but we do have uncapped cable from oceanic which is twc. Not looking forward to this merger. Whilst they don't compete geographically there was some element of being able to compare prices between companies and when one brought out a new technology ( say docsis3.0) the other pretty much had to. Sadly since cable rapidly outstripped dsl in speed local pots companies have found it hard to compete, even with vdsl etc as one you get a mile or two away from the exchange you are back to relatively poor speeds. I would love to see the spur at least fttc if not ftth.

I would suggest trying to balance your education with your experience. To much education without experience can be a disadvantage as employers can discount you because they believe you will move on to quickly from an entry level position but aren't experienced enough for a higher level position. I'm not suggesting you don't get a batchellors, I'd suggest you get a masters, but only if you are picking up real world experience along the way.

Thanks. I wonder how they managed to get around not having a permit! Good news that works being done

Is there any chance it was AT&T and not Sprint as AT&T are the only ones with a recent ish permit in the system for that TMK \ Address or their normal Designer \ Engineer? Although I wouldn't be shocked if the system was borked.

Excellent, you sound like a good candidate then. The money does vary hugely, I made far more money as a photographer than I did coding. Higher paying jobs are out there, many of them are high paying these days, the average has probably gone up as many of the mid level and low level jobs got offshored. Two things that will play a big factor in scoring a job are certifications )where appropriate) and experience. As mentioned doctorates are less of a factor in computing, the time and money is better spent elsewhere. CompSci degrees tend to leave you with a huge amount of slack time and brain capacity, spend it on playing (google runs coding challenges which would be good). A good degree will likely teach you at least two stages of programming, from assembler, procedural and OO, learn beyond the books. You can pickup coding work online, this will help buff your CV and test what you are learning, leave college with more than your degrees. I would suggest also ignoring some industry prejudices. I got the opportunity to pickup oracle certification and a lot of folks looked down on Access \ Jet because they didn't understand what it was trying to do, but out in the workplace I spent way more time using Access because you can prototype a front end or even having a working model in a few hours instead of days or weeks in Oracle. They thought that the limitations of Jet crippled access when in reality you can just move the front end over to point at a mysql\mssql store and rock on at a much larger scale. I would also try and learn some older languages, many company have legacy systems that they won't replace until they cannot get the parts from ebay anymore. In 2001 I was working with reel to reel ~120MB tape drives running on a mainframe that was straight out of buck rodgers. Seriously, filing cabinet sized tape drives, flashing lights and beedy beep sounds but the damn thing ran most of the time and the cost to replace was enough to justify keeping it until it imploded. Being the person with experience in the hardware and some software experience can land you extra pay. Ebay is freaking awesome for use kit thats come off lease, dell c6100's plus a cisco lab and you have your own network to play on If I had to go back into computing tomorrow I would probably pick security. Challenging and good money and like medicine the need isn't going away, plus its unlikely to be offshored. It's a brave company that sends its network security work to India Anyhows good luck, feel free to ask any more questions \ PM, I'll try and get in the lounge at some point.

I'd stick with medicine tbh. Pay and conditions will fluctuate over time with different governments but it's a better long term choice. Once my kids leave for college I'll likely come out of semi retirement and give medicine a shot. If you don't have a passion for computing and or previous experience you will find it tougher. If I may be completely honest, and this isn't intended as a criticism, I went through college with a lot of people who decided computing was the career for them based on the fact they thought the money would be good. They had no experience or real interest in computing and the majority didn't even finish the degree. There were exceptions but I firmly believe those were the types who would have done well at anything. The rest of us had mostly already taught ourselves the curriculum before we stayed the degree so we spent the time at college advising the facilities and staff to work on projects. Looking back I would say follow your heart, if you have a passion for medicine follow it. If you have a passion for photography follow that. You'd also be amazed what jobs you can do without an appropriate degree. Not trying to put you off just making sure you understand that if you have no experience in computing yet you will have a lot of work to do to catch up and if you don't love it you have to be insanely disciplined.

Not computer sciences, I did degrees in multimedia software design and software engineering. I haven't worked in computing for over a decade though. Computer science is a relatively generic computing degree, so your electives would probably impact career choices. When I did use my degree I worked for a local authority basically doing everything from network installs to developing their in house systems (a mix but mostly c or cobol). I did some freelance stuff for schools, mostly installs. I also ran a small hosting company from a few years with some coworkers, nothing huge, just a small suite. Looking back I was a fool, should have gone premed. It can be a great job and there still is good money for some folks but it isn't easy money. Just thinking about the other options question, database are one area, HCI is another, hardware engineering also.

Screen is likely, ram highly possible but I'm curious about the processor. I think the exynos variant will be 64bit but I'm not as sure about the lte \ snapdragon variant. Qualcomm are usually shouting about their top end chips 6-12 months before they actually hit devices. I would have expected more noise from them about a 8XX series 64 bit chip. They talked about the 410, so we may see an 810 like rumours suggest but I would have thought they would have talked about it already. Qualcomm are so the opposite of cell phone makers, they're screaming about their products long before they ship, probably because they know it will leak anyway when they ship validation socs to oems. Just to be clear, I'm not trying to be argumentative, just thinking aloud